Dalian

I am so happy to have found this little gem of a restaurant which specialises in North East Chinese cuisine. This is the hearty stuff - ideal nosh for cold wintry nights. Not exactly fitting for the 35 degree celsius weather in Bangkok, but still can't help coming back to this place at least once a week.

Firstly, this is pretty much genuine Chinese food, just like the little eateries in mainland China. The people who run the place all speak Mandarin and there is usually a Chinese tv soap opera showing in the corner.

Secondly, the food is very good. As mentioned, it's hearty, filling stuff. Quite oily actually and I'd recommend that stir-fried dishes are balanced with a soup, stew or boiled stuff.

The way the Chinese (sorry, we) cook aubergines is divine. The succulence of the flesh, the crispiness of the outer edges, the absorption of oil and juice and sauce... oh my. They have about 3 or 4 aubergine dishes: braised, with brown sauce, with pork, with peppers and onions (pictured). We can never remember which one we ordered before. I think maybe it's the braised one which is best. Say "qiezi" (chair zer)!

Another outstanding speciality is the dumplings (jiaozi - or jowzer in English). These can be fried or boiled. They can be veggie or stuffed full of pork and cabbage. We get the meaty ones boiled. Dipped in vinegar, tasting these little bundles of delight simply transports me back to cold winter nights in Beijing huddled over a big steaming bowl of satisfying, delicious dumplings.

Also pictured is 'Dalian stew' - a tasty soup full of cabbage, greens, and seemingly random pieces of pork. They have quite an extensive menu and it can get quite hard to choose what to have!

Service is OK. Punters don't seem to be Thai but either ex-pat mainlanders, Japanese or Korean. Fatt is usually the only farang in the restaurant.

Dalian is located on Suk Soi 40. No sign in English, but as you enter the soi, look to the right and you'll see lots of red lanterns.